Bouillon Bilk Montreal

Here are some highlights from a recent tasting menu/wine pairing experience at Montreal’s Bouillion Bilk restaurant. The combination of classic wine styles and locally sourced cuisine was inventive and indelible. My wife and I have been savouring the culinary artistry and wine expertise of sommeliers such as Minh Doan and Jason St. Amour since 2021.

92 Remy Bertin Champagne Tradition Vallee de la Marne Champagne France

100% Pinot Meunier from the Valle de la Marne-striking aromatic and flavour depth with cherry, citrus, mineral and biscuity notes. Impressive focus from start to finish. Paired with raw tuna, nectarine, dashi stock and tomato water.

90 Domaine Joseph Roty 2022 AC Marsannay Burgundy, France

Hailing from the northern environs of Burgundy on the way to Dijon, this has an intriguing mix of dark fruit and earthy elements. Nicely focused with good acidity, ripe tannin and a lingering finish. Served with beef tartare. 

91 Lucien Muzard & Fils 2024 Meursault Les Meix Chavaux AC Meursault  Burgundy France

Sourced from chardonnay slopes that face northeast, this is a well balanced and admirably evolved Meursault. Pear and apple components joined by a touch of toasty and spice oak that is well managed. This is well proportioned with a long fruity and slightly toasty finish. Paired with a dish that featured generous pieces of the sweet lobster augmented by turnip, yuzu and crumbled peanuts.

93 Chavarri 2005 Rioja Gran Reserva Rioja Doca Spain

Beautifully layered and complex, this gran reserva was a hard cover book of aromas and flavours Blackberry,dried cherry, black olive, dark chocolate, and nutty notes. Elegant and complex on the palate with lingering dark fruit and nuts on the finish. Paired with magret augmented by miso, turnip and green onion.

92 Jean Medeville & Fils Chateau Barbier AC Sauternes Bordeaux France

A superb match for the strawberries joined by coconut and yuzu. Honey, nectarine, dried fruit notes. Good acidity and structure with an abundance of fruit character from start to finish.

90 Siglo 2015 Gran Reserva Rioja Doca Spain

A well evolved tempranillo-based Gran Reserva with some garnacha and graciano in support. Attractive dark fruit, and well managed oak buttressed by a good spine of acidity and ripe tannin. There are anise and cocoa notes with hints of roasted nuts that emerge after a closer examination. These abundant layers linger nicely on the finish. LCBO Vintages 11228 August 15 $24.95

92 Domaine Perraud 2023 Macon La Roche-Vineuse “Le Clos” AC Macon-Villages

A well structured and complex Macon that brims with apple, pear, toasty, and mineral vitality. Jumps out nicely on the nose with vibrant fruit supported by the well managed oak. Very good concentration and length with a long finish combining all the attractive elements equally. SAQ $32.80

89 Stephane Ogier 2025 Les Temps Est Vent Cotes Du Rhone

An appealing blend of grenache blanc, Roussanne and Clairette, each coming in at 25%, with 10% each of Viognier and Marsanne and 5% Bourboulenc. A bit restrained on the nose but some pleasant citrus and floral notes emerge. Good structure with a decent follow through on the palate. Comes alive after a few swirls of the glass. SAQ $24.65

92 Domaine Fevre Nathalie & Gilles Chablis 2025 Chablis Burgundy France

A complex and well-structured Chablis that comes in at an expected price point. Apple, pear, toasty and minerally qualities are supported by lively acidity and impressive structure. The various elements linger nicely on the finish. SAQ $38.75

92 Segionot-Bordet Chablis 2025 Chablis Burgundy France

This was tasted with oysters on the roof at Terrasse William Gray in Old Montreal. An expressive blend of apple, pear, toasty oak, mineral and vibrant acidity. The various elements work seamlessly when sipped on its own and in concert with the briny oysters. SAQ $32.25

88 La Carusa 2024 Nero D’Avola/Syrah DOC Sicilia Italy

A bright and accessible blend that would work well on its own or with grilled vegetables or chicken. The lively cran-cherry and herbal qualities compliment each other. Medium bodied with a good spine of acidity and lingering red berry finish. This is a solid value. LCBO Vintages 44856 July 18 $17.95

87 Colombelle 2024 Colombard/Sauvignon Blanc Igp Cotes De Gascogne Southwest France

Solid value in a lively colombard/sauvignon blanc combination. Guava and kiwi fruit tones joined by some mint and leafy notes. The palate balances acidity with evident sweetness and acceptable flavour intensity for the price. Not intended to be overly complex but delivers some appealing up front fruit and vegetal charm. Chill and serve during the last few weeks of the summer. LCBO Vintages 36910 July 19 $12.95

Day trip to Thirty Bench Winery

A Memorable Visit to Thirty Bench Wines-August 20, 2024

A few years ago, I met Tom Muckle at the Thirty Bench Booth during the Lifford Wine Agency Grand Tasting. A few days later, when I raved about Thirty Bench Wines to my father-in-law, he asked if I ran into Tom Muckle. It turned out both men knew each other as medical colleagues. The “small world” coincidence did not end there. When I researched the history of Thirty Bench in more detail, the name of Dr. Yiorgos Papageorgiou from McMaster University came up as a founding partner. Dr. Papageorgiou  was one of the core lecturers in my first year geography class at McMaster University in 1981-82, around the same time he and Tom Muckle were launching their winery.

Last August I took my Alberta-based brother-in-law on his first ever scenic trip through Niagara wine country. It was gorgeous morning as we left Toronto behind and descended on the region where I grew up. I decided to make Thirty Bench our first stop. We were received warmly and given an opportunity to walk through some of the property to see the terroir and ripening grapes first-hand before our tasting.

Thirty Bench has fashioned a reputation for epitomizing quality over quantity. They recently finished as the second highest scoring Ontario winery at the National Wine Awards. In 2015 they were named Canada’s top small winery at these same awards. Winemaker Emma Garner leads a team that produces stellar wines, in particular its Riesling and Cabernet Franc, though there were a few other single variety wines and blends that shone at our tasting. Here are some of the highlights of our visit.

91 Thirty Bench 2021 Riesling Steel Post Vineyard VQA Beamsville Bench $28.00

A vibrant riesling that displays lime with tinges of graprefruit, granny smith apple, and mineral complexity. Lively acidity with a consistent flavour profile that is expressive from start to finish. Would work well with ham or charcuterie. $28.00 Winery

92 Thirty Bench 2021 Riesling Triangle Vineyard VQA Beamsville Bench

A bright and alert citrus nose follows through beautifully on the palate. Lime and apple flavours are focused and just off dry. Impressive depth of flavour and length. Serve with grilled chicken, fish or vegetables with a slightly sweet sauce. $28.00 Winery

92 Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Pinot Noir VQA Beamsville Bench

An attractive combination of cherry and plum fruit depth augmented by earthy and spicy complexity from 10 months in older French oak. It really sings on the palate with bright red fruit, wood spice, lively acidity and well managed tannin. Well structured overall with excellent length. This would pair well with grilled salmon. $35.00 Winery

93 Thirty Bench Small Lot Cabernet Franc VQA Beamsville Bench

An appealing and complex cabernet franc made from a limited production organic vineyard. Dark berry character is joined by well-managed sweet oak and herbal tea complexity. Impressive flavour depth and structure with a long finish that will pair well with vegetable stews or rack of lamb with herbs. $68.00 Winery

90 Domaine Chignard Fleurie Les Moriers 2014 Beaujolais Burgundy France

A nicely structured Beaujolais cru built on generous fruit and floral complexity. Quite open on the nose with an abundance of cherry and raspberry fruit amid floral notes. Impressive depth of flavour with red fruit, lively acidity and persistence on the finish. SAQ $27.00

87 Torres Altos Ibericos Crianza 2013 Rioja Spain

Not bad at the original price of $16.95 but good value if you can find a bottle at the bin end price of $11.90. I picked one up in Toronto last month. Tart red berry amid spice, meatiness and moderate tannin. Good flavour depth with ripeness and acidity mingling well. Nothing remarkable but solid, easy drinking Rioja. LCB0 $16.95 ($11.90 sale)

89 Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir Tautavel Grenache/Syrah/Carignan 2013 Ap Cotes du Roussillon Villages Roussillon France

Lots happening here for under $20. Impressive mix of dark fruit, herbs and earthy-mineral complexity. Well structured on the palate with blackberry, plum, black cherry, savoury herbs, some earthiness and firm tannin. Great with herb crusted lamb or beef. LCBO Vintages January 7 2017 $18.95

88 La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Luberon 2015 Rhone Valley, France

Stellar value in a tasty and complex white that shows what a mix of Rhone Valley grape varieties can produce. Attractive melon, pear and floral aromas with hints of spice and mineral. Good weight on the palate with ripe fruit joined by appealing lemony acidity on the back end. Tasty on its own or with grilled seafood. LCBO $12.45-currently on sale for $10.95

88 Ascheri Barbera d'Alba 2015 Piedmont Italy

Solid value in a barbera that displays typical tart red fruit and lively acidity on a mid-weight frame. Cran-cherry aromas are joined by hints of roasted meat and mineral. Tart and fruity flavours with hints of spice and little tannic evidence. Good length with quite a bit of character for the money. LCBO $14.95

88 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2015 South Australia

A consistent performer if you are looking for a fruit-driven and well balanced red to match a variety of food. Black cherry and blackberry fruit are joined by some chocolate and slightly earthy complexity. Well proportioned on the palate with bright fruit, acidity and sufficient weight to match grilled meat or veggie kabobs over the next couple of years. LCBO $18.00 

89 Giesen Pinot Noir 2014 Marlborough, New Zealand

A good example of a tangy and well balanced Marlborough pinot. Look for a pleasant nose of cran-cherry and dried herbs with floral and wood spice hints. Attractive sourish cherry flavours amid a touch of spice and tannic grip. Appealing characters persist on the finish. LCBO Vintages January 7, 2017 $21.95

88 Heartland Stickleback Red 2013 South Australia, Australia

Solid value in a fruit and spice-laden Aussie red with some impressive complexity for the money. Mid-weight with blackberry, blackcurrant, mint, and spice aromas and flavours. This medley lingers nicely on the finish. LCBO Vintages January 7, 2017 $14.95

88 Amaral Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Leyda Valley, Chile

A fresh and enticing sauvignon built on citrus and tropical fruit amid herbal layers. Refreshing and youthful aromas lead to a fruit-driven palate with an asparagus component. Good weight at 13.5% alcohol with a dry and zesty finish. Solid value. LCBO Vintages December 10 2016 $14.95 

88 Vinos Los Valles 2010 Tempranillo/Graciano Crianza DOCa Rioja Spain

A pleasant Rioja with an enticing combination of fruit depth and floral complexity. Nicely fragrant with red fruit in the forefront amid floral accents. Quite open and approachable on the palate with lingering red fruit. Best 2016-2018. LCBO Vintages March 19 2016 $19.95

88 Chateau De Bordes Quancard 2011 Bordeaux France

A well made Bordeaux with appealing fruit, tinges of oak and structure that should see it develop over the next 5 years. Plum and blackberry amid wood spice and hints of mineral. Quite firm but not unapproachable if you have some protein on hand. LCBO Vintages March 19 2016 $16.95